Roadtrip: The Birgunj Diary With The BMW G310 GS

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March 24, 2023
From experiencing the vibrant Chaath puja celebrations to savoring tastebud-tickling cuisines, and relaxing at an incredible man-made lake, this is our journey of a region less traveled.

Birgunj is not the first place that comes to your mind when you consider destinations to ride in Terai. However, this quaint southern town, named after the Rana Prime Minister Bir Shumsher, holds significant economic importance for Nepal as most of the trade with India is via Birgunj and the Indian town of Raxaul. The ‘Gateway of Nepal’, as it is generally called, doesn’t have a sparkling list of ‘must see’ places or ‘must do’ things.

Nevertheless, Birgunj once stood proud as the hub of a memorable classical music festival - Bagari Music Festival, which according to scholars, was remembered by generations of musicians in the subcontinent for its grandeur and scale. Although Birgunj has come a long way since its days as a city with significant cultural importance, it still remains a popular destination on the tourism map of Madhesh Province. So, what does this region have to offer to visitors? We take the BMW G310 GS to Birgunj via Kanti Lokpath to explore Nepal’s bustling Southern plains.

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The route:

The journey starts when you take the road towards Tikabhairab from Satdobato which passes through Chapagaun. While the narrow road is easy to follow, the lack of highway signage can be confusing. Ask the locals to point you towards the “Hetauda Janey Bato (The road to Hetauda)” if you feel lost.

You need to take the road towards Lele after reaching the Tahakhel bus station. As you ride further, let’s say approximately a kilometer or two, look for a beaten path on your right that leads you towards Tikabhairab temple.

After crossing Tikabhairab temple, head towards the road to Thingan. The ride to Thingan takes you past Teenpani, Jhakri Danda, Kalche Bhir, and Baguwa. For anyone who enjoys scenic hillside roads, this route is a joy to ride/drive. It’s not all rainbows and butterflies though, the road is narrow and certain patches of the roads will test your grit. The 28 km run from Tikabhairab temple to the Bagmati River crossing at the border of Makwanpur and Lalitpur District is a mixed bag.

While you’ll be cruising along an empty tarmac mostly, there are a few bad sections with rocky patches and dirt tracks. Ride very cautiously on these narrow dirt and gravel trails hanging off the hilly edge. On the bright side, traffic on this narrow road is sparse and heavy vehicles are prohibited.

A highway that's more than 60 years in the making. Kanti Lokpath is one of the shortest yet largely sparse 90 km long feeder routes connecting Satdobato, Lalitpur to Buddha Chowk, Hetauda

The real fun begins after you cross the Bagmati bridge in Baguwa. The road from here on is fantastic for most of the 51 km that leads you up to Hetauda. Wide roads, sparse traffic, and smooth tarmac make this twisty stretch a breeze. From Hetauda, take the usual Tribhuvan Highway, past Pathalaiya, Simara, and Jeetpur, to reach Birgunj.

Remember to: Leave early as the road from Satdobato to Tikabhairab is narrow at most of the sections. Also, the overpass construction at Gwarko chowk can cause major traffic congestion on the ring road.

Don’t forget to: Fill your tank and check tyre pressure at Satdobato. We didn’t see any repair workshop for quite some time, so you need to be able to depend on the reliability of your machine to get you to your destination. Carry a spare tube or a puncture repair kit, and a few spares, if possible.

The machine:

With the BMW G310 GS, you have a motorcycle that can adapt perfectly to almost every type of terrain. The powerful single-cylinder engine allows you to master all types of riding conditions with ease. while the relaxed ergonomics inspire the confidence you need to tackle any terrain with confidence. The introduction of ride-by-wire and slipper clutch has definitely added to its capabilities.

Even if you want to spend some time off the tarmac, this versatile little tourer won’t disappoint you. However, the baby GS is not an out-and-out off-roader. It’s more suited to road riding and mild off-roading rather than exploring extreme terrains. It is comfortable enough to get on and go right away and can work well in adventure touring. Additionally, the bike also comes fitted with a nice luggage rack at the rear which is big enough to accommodate a decent-sized tail bag.

Spend some time on the saddle and you'll have a little question as to why the baby GS is a crowd favorite for people who love to explore

Shankaracharya Gate, also known as the 'Gateway of Nepal', is located on the Birgunj-Raxaul border. The border area is a key transit point facilitating Indo-Nepal trade

Bharat Taal, the second largest man-made lake in Nepal, should be on your bucket list should you plan to visit Madhesh Province next time. Situated at Bagmati Municipality, Sarlahi, this artificial lake has become a major tourist attraction around this region lately

The baby GS is undoubtedly a crowd favorite

The BMW G310 GS in its natural element

A bustling commercial town for most of the year, Birgunj takes on a completely different avatar during the colorful extravaganza that is the Chaath Puja celebrations

Make sure you don't miss the celebrations around Ghadiarwa Pokhari next time

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